We have been walking for 6 hours on the rocky terrain up and down. We have about 200 porters on the road. Our Czech team is progressing in the front and a group of self-confident Estonia men are falling behind. We arrived to the camp Paya around three oclock, just when it started to rain a bit. We can see Pakistani organizational insufficiency, because the porter carrying our tents is arriving as last. Getting wet, we were pretty angry at first, but our anger did not last that long. As he arrives, we see a 1.5 m tall man with a big smile on his face. ( he must take some of that good green under his tongue ) He has flowers behind both ears and in his mouth. We started to call him Happy. Camp Paya is beautiful. For the first time we can see seven thousanders and sirdar Sultan swears that the small top somewhere behind the horizon is the fourth summit of Gaserbrumm.

The road was not only full of rocks, but also had plenty of traps. A fake turns up the hills, or favorite places of the porters where they were cooking their food and relieving themselves. Let’s just say, they did not go far to do so at all. It was very interesting to watch the faces of the expedition members not used such things. At first their faces were twisted with disgust. Moments later with full concentration they were hopping in this “trap field “. Another trap was a strong stream. Now, let me remind you, that each of us is carrying a huge back pack loaded with our climbing gear. We could cross the stream only with four or five jumps from one wet stone to the other. It is known, that one climber helps another climber in need. When the writer of this paragraph arrived to the banks of this furious creek, the leader of this expedition Zdenek Hruby and the the member of this expedition Radek Jaros were waiting on the other side of the stream without their bags. Waiting for what? To HELP? Yeah, right. They were ready to take pictures...

All of a sudden Pakistani porters we coming for help. At the beginning the liaison officer was translating: “He has a stomach pain, perhaps he ate something bad. Do you have any medicine? What is wrong with him?” We don’t know. It could be even inflammation, we think. We want to help him! The fact is, we do not have a doctor with us. Should we give him medicine? So, we gave the porter a pill for digestion and a pain killer. There were others coming for help with various problems. Complaining about scratches, hurt fingers and other little things. Finally we got to have a dinner. At dinner the porter complained about having a blister on his foot. Bouda ( expedition member ) stopped eating, jumped up and showed his foot to the porter. He had a blister much bigger than the porter and he was not complaining. That was our victory! The complaining of the porters stopped immediately.