The tents of the international expedition are standing next to our tents in BC. There are many famous names in the international expedition. The Leader is Peter Guggemos ( 43 ).

What is your regular job?

I own a construction company. Presently, I employ somewhere between 400 -450 people.

You are leading international expedition on K2 with 11 climbers, you must be a great leader?

Not at all. All my leadership consists of an agreement during dinner or we pull our chairs in front of the tent and while looking at the mountain face we discuss our plans. Practically all of my expeditions were international.

Does having a name like Hans Kammerlander on the team force you to mold your opinion to his?

Practically all climbers are individualists, peculiar, often independent and strong. For one name I do not feel the need to conventionalize myself. It is easy to lead Hans and we have no problem seeing eye to eye. It is a fact, that this is the first expedition without any trouble maker or revolutionary on the team.

Do you have anybody specific in mind?

Yes. On Nanga Parbat there was one Heinz Wohlwent from Liechtenstein. From the moment I left the tent, he started to doubt everything we had so far agreed on. Or there was Michael Lauprecht on Gasherbrum with us. I would never take these two guys on my expedition again.

How do you find people for the expedition?

I placed an ad in Climbing, Alpin, or On the Edge publications. Simply it says: I am going there and there and I am looking for climbers. I also have a lot of friends in the USA. In the end most often I have Americans, Germans, French, Italians, and Austrians on the team. It is true though, that to put a team together for G1 or G2 is much easier that K2. I do not check out those who want to go. It must be their wish, their decision to go to this specific mountain. I call usually only one meeting before departure and it is only to discuss organizational issues.

Do you have any profit from the expedition?

Only sometimes and minimally. Talking about big mountains, it is not my goal to profit. My goal is to climb and during that I do not count on profiting.

Does your family suffer with your yearly 2 months absence?

My wife is helping me with preparations. She is working on organizational and financial issues. Her name is Ie Tshering Uti, and she is a sherpa from Namche Bazar. She speaks 6 languages and is irreplaceable. Thanks to her I can be just a construction entrepreneur or just a climber. She is taking care of the rest.

Do you consider any of your one of your expeditions as being unsuccessful?

Makalu 2000. There were four of us and during our attack of the summit, one of my friends spilled hot water on himself in C1.

Do you think you are successful?

I am a successful construction entrepreneur.

And as an expedition leader?

That is my hobby.

How much ahead do you plan for your next expeditions?

K2 is my last one.

Reason?

I do not want to be 60 and still sitting somewhere in Base Camp.

Peter Guggemos
Owner of a construction company - he started to climb at the age of 20, favorite is mixed climbing, followed in the footsteps of Pamir, Patagonia, and Yosemit.
1979 - first time in Himalayas, - trekking around Mt. Everest + Iland Peak.
1982 - Nuptse from the Norths, Scott’s route, did not reached summit, lost all equipment 1992 - Cho-Oyu, summit, climbing friend broke his leg at 7400m, carried him down
1993 - Cho-Oyu, first time leader
1994 - Broad Peak, did not reach the summit
1995 - G2, did not reach the summit
1996 - Shisha Pangma, leader, 2 climbers on the summit
1997 - Boad Peak, leader, 13 climbers on the summit
1998 - G1+G2, leader, 2 climbers on the summit, while climbing a friend broke his leg at 7400m, P.G. - carried him down by himself
1999 - Nanga Parbat, leader, 8 climbers on the summit
2000 - Makalu
2001 (April - May) - Mt.Everest and Lhoce, leader
2001 - K2, leader